(no subject)
Aug. 18th, 2006 10:31 amSpace on my floor! Space on my floor! And four cookbooks to go back neatly onto the bookshelf.
The first one is Mrs Glasse's "The Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy; Excelling any Thing of the Kind ever yet Published." It first appeared in 1747, with an American edition in 1805. This cookbook is so heavily quoted by all and sundry that I feel bad even opening it, as if I am just copying everyone else. Glasse has recipes for ice cream and chocolate (oops, did I say chocolate - gotta check those ones out, NOW).
Sham Chocolate (squint and you can read this as Shame Chocolate, because it has nothing of chocolate in it - would make a nice bedtime drink though):
"Take a pint of milk, boil it over a slow fire, with some whole cinnamon, and sweeten it with Lisbon sugar; beat up the yolks of three eggs, throw all together into a chocolate-pot, and mill it one way, or it will turn. Serve it up in chocolate-cups."
What's cool about this recipe is it shows what people did who couldn't obtain the luxury item.
Glasse has two actual recipes for chocolate on pp 261-2 and they are quite different. I want to try the first one but it's impossible. Too many of the ingredients are hard to get (and two are evil and unPC). For a start, it takes the actual cocoa nuts. You also need anise, long pepper, cinnamon, almond, pistachio, achiote, musk, ambergris, loaf sugar, nutmeg and orange or rose water. The second recipe is way more boring, with just cinnamon and cardamom and sugar.
The next book in my pile grandly claims to be the "The first modern cookery book" by "The Eminent Meastro Martino of Como." This is a recent arrival and I might have to withhold judgement till I have worked through it. It has some good stuff, but the cover claims this guy was the first celebrity chef, which is not even close to the truth. It's a translation with no original next to it (which always bugs me - I like to check that translators and I agree on ingredients and we occasionally don't and I like to find out what has been added by the translator to clarify the text). This means this book is a bit of a mystery. I can't use it for research and I need to find a text of the original before I can use it too much in cooking. No doubt the introduction and notes will be handy. And the book itself is fine reading, especially since the random-opening approach to find a quote gives me "pork meat is not healthful - no matter how you cook it". This is the perfect quote because the last two books in this stack are Jewish cookbooks.
The first is English "The Jewish Manual or Practical Information in Jewish & Modern Cookery with a collection of valuable recipes & hints relating to the toilette. Edited by a Lady." 1846 The second is American "Mrs. Esther Levy's Jewish Cookery Book on Principles of Economy adapted for Jewish Housekeepers with Medicinal Recipes and Other Valuable Information relative to Housekeeping and Domestic Management." 1871. One day I will talk about Jewish cookbooks (since they have a special place in my heart) and that's when you will get the rude comments and cute quotes. Until then, isn't it sufficient that I have a book on my shelves written by "a Lady". The closest I will get to being one.
The first one is Mrs Glasse's "The Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy; Excelling any Thing of the Kind ever yet Published." It first appeared in 1747, with an American edition in 1805. This cookbook is so heavily quoted by all and sundry that I feel bad even opening it, as if I am just copying everyone else. Glasse has recipes for ice cream and chocolate (oops, did I say chocolate - gotta check those ones out, NOW).
Sham Chocolate (squint and you can read this as Shame Chocolate, because it has nothing of chocolate in it - would make a nice bedtime drink though):
"Take a pint of milk, boil it over a slow fire, with some whole cinnamon, and sweeten it with Lisbon sugar; beat up the yolks of three eggs, throw all together into a chocolate-pot, and mill it one way, or it will turn. Serve it up in chocolate-cups."
What's cool about this recipe is it shows what people did who couldn't obtain the luxury item.
Glasse has two actual recipes for chocolate on pp 261-2 and they are quite different. I want to try the first one but it's impossible. Too many of the ingredients are hard to get (and two are evil and unPC). For a start, it takes the actual cocoa nuts. You also need anise, long pepper, cinnamon, almond, pistachio, achiote, musk, ambergris, loaf sugar, nutmeg and orange or rose water. The second recipe is way more boring, with just cinnamon and cardamom and sugar.
The next book in my pile grandly claims to be the "The first modern cookery book" by "The Eminent Meastro Martino of Como." This is a recent arrival and I might have to withhold judgement till I have worked through it. It has some good stuff, but the cover claims this guy was the first celebrity chef, which is not even close to the truth. It's a translation with no original next to it (which always bugs me - I like to check that translators and I agree on ingredients and we occasionally don't and I like to find out what has been added by the translator to clarify the text). This means this book is a bit of a mystery. I can't use it for research and I need to find a text of the original before I can use it too much in cooking. No doubt the introduction and notes will be handy. And the book itself is fine reading, especially since the random-opening approach to find a quote gives me "pork meat is not healthful - no matter how you cook it". This is the perfect quote because the last two books in this stack are Jewish cookbooks.
The first is English "The Jewish Manual or Practical Information in Jewish & Modern Cookery with a collection of valuable recipes & hints relating to the toilette. Edited by a Lady." 1846 The second is American "Mrs. Esther Levy's Jewish Cookery Book on Principles of Economy adapted for Jewish Housekeepers with Medicinal Recipes and Other Valuable Information relative to Housekeeping and Domestic Management." 1871. One day I will talk about Jewish cookbooks (since they have a special place in my heart) and that's when you will get the rude comments and cute quotes. Until then, isn't it sufficient that I have a book on my shelves written by "a Lady". The closest I will get to being one.